In a tiny cellar underneath his home in the village of Valvignères, Anders Frederik Steen’s creativity knows no bounds. Alsatian Pinot Noir from the Bannwarth’s in Obermorschwihr, but not as you know it. Around a quarter of the fruit was destemmed and fermented in juice of a direct press overnight, spent a year resting in cuve, before three years of élevage without topping up in old barriques. A wine of seemingly eternal youth, it is lean, chiselled, and mineral, with intense flavours of green citrus and a saltiness that just seems to go on and on. Breathtaking now, it will reward drinkers for many years to come.