Barbacarlo is a blend of Croatina, Uva Rara and Ughetta grapes from vines up to a hundred years old planted over tufo on a particularly steep slope some three hundred metres above sea level. Given the warmth of the vintage, this remains a powerful and fruit forward wine despite its age. Delightfully savoury, it asks for a good piece of meat.
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Giuseppe Maga’s family has been making wine since 1886.
Following in the footsteps of his father, the late, great Lino Maga, Giuseppe now carries on the family tradition.
The Magas’ vineyards cling to a very steep slope surrounded by forest in the hills outside Broni in Lombardia’s Oltrepò Pavese. Some three hundred metres above sea level, the four hectares of vines are on average fifty years old, are planted over tufo and exposed southwest. Vineyard work is decidedly old school, the Magas work by hand, avoiding the use of chemicals and come harvest time make a rigorous selection of grapes.
The wines are made the same way they always have been here. They are fermented in ancient casks with no temperature control, racked with the turn of the moon and bottled with nothing added in the spring. Unusually, the wines finish fermentation in the bottle, resulting in wines that differ markedly from year to year, something Lino always rejoiced in, wondering why others bother to put the vintage on the label when the wines always taste the same.
To taste these wines is to be transported to another time. They have an honesty, transparency and rustic charm that is difficult to find.