BARBACARLO
Grappa Barbacarlo Capovilla 2017 [50cl]
Lombardy, Italy
When it comes to fantastic distillati, few in Italy do it better than Vittorio Capovilla. Since the mid eighties he has been crafting exquisite grappa from Villa Dolfin Boldù in Rosà, right near the drink’s spiritual home in the Veneto’s Bassano del Grappa. This captures the essence of Barbacarlo, offering rich fruit, earth and a hint of briny minerals. A real treat at the end of a good meal.
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Giuseppe Maga’s family has been making wine since 1886.
Following in the footsteps of his father, the late, great Lino Maga, Giuseppe now carries on the family tradition.
The Magas’ vineyards cling to a very steep slope surrounded by forest in the hills outside Broni in Lombardia’s Oltrepò Pavese. Some three hundred metres above sea level, the four hectares of vines are on average fifty years old, are planted over tufo and exposed southwest. Vineyard work is decidedly old school, the Magas work by hand, avoiding the use of chemicals and come harvest time make a rigorous selection of grapes.
The wines are made the same way they always have been here. They are fermented in ancient casks with no temperature control, racked with the turn of the moon and bottled with nothing added in the spring. Unusually, the wines finish fermentation in the bottle, resulting in wines that differ markedly from year to year, something Lino always rejoiced in, wondering why others bother to put the vintage on the label when the wines always taste the same.
To taste these wines is to be transported to another time. They have an honesty, transparency and rustic charm that is difficult to find.