Lombardy, Italy


Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio 1999



Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio 1999
Lombardy, Italy

This dramatic fifty year old vineyard sits directly above the family’s cantina, which is artfully carved into the granite bedrock. After a long maceration with the skins, the grapes are pressed off to large chestnut casks for a long, gentle élevage that lasts four years. From a robust vintage, this is an incredible example of mature mountain Nebbiolo, with sweet, delicate fruit and savoury notes of dried mountain herbs. 



The Perego family has been growing grapes on the granite terraces of Valtellina since 1860.

They work only with Nebbiolo, or Chiavennasca as it is called in these parts, growing the grapes up to seven hundred metres above sea level on sheer, south-facing, sunlit vines that dig straight into rock. The vines are so far north into the alps they are practically in Switzerland and the resulting fruit is intensely mineral.

Production is very much of the old-school and labour is intense, the hills making it very difficult to reach the fruit at all. Everything across their thirteen hectares of vines is done by hand and in the cantina the family exercises a soft touch with famous patience. Favouring long, gentle macerations, the wines are left to rest in large, old chestnut casks until they are deemed ready for release.

The transparency of the grape, the singular landscape and the Peregos’ gentle hand in the cantina make for wines that are up there with Italy’s greats.