JACOPO STIGLIANO
Buriana 2021 [1.5 L]
Emilia-Romagna, Italy
In the Bolognese dialect, Buriana describes a sort of melting pot or beautiful chaos. The fruit here comes from two gorgeous old parcels hidden in the hills of Valsamoggia, one where the vines are over one hundred years old and another between thirty to sixty years old. They are planted over clay and limestone between two and three hundred metres above sea level. This is made up of over a dozen white grape varieties grown together, harvested together and fermented on the skins for a week, before being pressed to concrete vats for a year of rest. From a warmer vintage, this offers plenty of depth and complexity, with a pleasant density of fruit, neat tannins and complex notes of stone fruits, citrus, minerals and wildflowers. Bottled only in magnum, it unfurls beautifully with air.
Over a dozen white varieties
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Perhaps the most talented young grower in Italy today, Jacopo Stigliano has been fascinated by wine since a young age.
Originally from Bologna, after decades travelling the world he returned to Emilia seeking a return to his roots and set about restoring abandoned old vineyards in the hope of bringing a new energy to the territory and shining a light on the work of the vignaioli of old.
Since 2017 he has farmed around three hectares of old vines planted over clay and limestone in Valsamoggia – a picturesque valley that lies between Bologna and Modena. Harking back to a tradition of agriculture from another age, diversity is key here, and the vines, some of which are over a hundred years of age, grow amongst a canopy of mature trees. The parcels are home to over twenty grape varieties, as well as walnuts, cherries and plums, and are amongst the most beautiful we have seen. From these he produces three wonderful field blends – Buriana, Hiraeth and Lauv.
In addition, Jacopo has now joined his friend Flavio Restani in a conservation project of sorts, producing a series of wonderful table wines under the Latin name for their valley – Samodia. These are borne from three hectares of picturesque old vineyards planted on limestone in the highest hills of Valsamoggia, up to five hundred metres above sea level. Though they channel the spirit of vino da tavola, the resulting wines are far from simple – they carry a wonderful sense of place and offer tremendous value.
Jacopo’s work in the vineyards is focused on retaining the incredible diversity that is already there, believing this lends richness and complexity, with each variety adding harmony to the final blend. All grapes are harvested, fermented and aged together, paying respect to the Italian tradition of the field blend, and in the cantina his work is simple. Believing that wine is made in the vineyard, the wines are bottled unfiltered, with nothing added at any stage.
Jacopo’s soulful, nourishing wines offer an expression of these beautiful old vineyards.
Photo: Giulia Nutricati