JACOPO STIGLIANO
Papillon 2020
Emilia-Romagna, Italy
We can think of few fonder memories of discovering a wine than this, which was opened for aperitivo to mark the beginning of the picnic of all picnics in Jacopo’s vineyard last spring. This beautiful sparkling wine is a blend of Trebbiano, Albana, Grechetto and more from an abandoned old vineyard, which spent just a day on skins, before being pressed to vats until the following spring. A little must from the same harvest was added to bring about a second fermentation in the bottle and the wine has been resting on its lees ever since. Brilliant, straw yellow in the glass, it draws you in with gentle notes of white flowers, citrus and stones, whilst the palate is whistle clean, with every little detail in place. One of the best examples of the genre we have tried.
Trebbiano, Albana, Grechetto
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Perhaps the most talented young grower in Italy today, Jacopo Stigliano has been fascinated by wine since a young age.
Originally from Bologna, after decades travelling the world he returned to Emilia seeking a return to his roots and set about restoring abandoned old vineyards in the hope of bringing a new energy to the territory and shining a light on the work of the vignaioli of old.
Since 2017 he has farmed around three hectares of old vines planted over clay and limestone in Valsamoggia – a picturesque valley that lies between Bologna and Modena. Harking back to a tradition of agriculture from another age, diversity is key here, and the vines, some of which are over a hundred years of age, grow amongst a canopy of mature trees. The parcels are home to over twenty grape varieties, as well as walnuts, cherries and plums, and are amongst the most beautiful we have seen. From these he produces three wonderful field blends – Buriana, Hiraeth and Lauv.
In addition, Jacopo has now joined his friend Flavio Restani in a conservation project of sorts, producing a series of wonderful table wines under the Latin name for their valley – Samodia. These are borne from three hectares of picturesque old vineyards planted on limestone in the highest hills of Valsamoggia, up to five hundred metres above sea level. Though they channel the spirit of vino da tavola, the resulting wines are far from simple – they carry a wonderful sense of place and offer tremendous value.
Jacopo’s work in the vineyards is focused on retaining the incredible diversity that is already there, believing this lends richness and complexity, with each variety adding harmony to the final blend. All grapes are harvested, fermented and aged together, paying respect to the Italian tradition of the field blend, and in the cantina his work is simple. Believing that wine is made in the vineyard, the wines are bottled unfiltered, with nothing added at any stage.
Jacopo’s soulful, nourishing wines offer an expression of these beautiful old vineyards.
Photo: Giulia Nutricati