La Charanga Ancestral 2015
A pétillant of rare finesse, the Palomino here comes entirely from Fernando’s cherished parcel of old vines in ‘La Charanga’. The wine rested for 72 months on the lees before disgorgement, rendering a vibrant, nuanced and invigorating wine that sings with complex scents of orange, wildflowers, sea breeze and brine. Gently saline and full of dry, chalky minerals, it is hard to beat alongside some pristine shellfish.
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
From a tiny bodega in the sunkissed and windswept town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Fernando Angulo produces thoughtful, original wines that redefine the sherry triangle.
Originally from Ronda, Fernando developed a love of wine in his youth and has spent the past few decades exploring it as a scholar, journalist and importer. Long fascinated by the history of sherry and its importance to Andalucía, in 2012 he moved to Sanlúcar to see what might be possible if he were able to harness the potential of a marriage of grape and place lauded for centuries.
In the hills outside of town, Palomino is planted on gentle slopes over the region’s emblematic off-white albariza soils. Made up largely of chalk, they retain water long after the rains have gone, allowing the vines to survive the long, hot summer and imparting the resulting wines with invigorating minerals. Under the heat of the Andalusían sun, not so far from where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean, this bleached landscape provides a dramatic setting for the growing of grapes.
Having spent the past decade exploring the region’s pagos, Fernando settled on a hectare and a half of old vines in ‘La Charanga’, a parcel within Pago Mahina which he believes to be the very best in the region. The warm, arid climate and stiff Levante wind allows him to work without any treatments at all, leaving nature to thrive.
In the bodega, he is self taught, following his intuition and convictions to produce genre-defying wines. Exercising great patience, he ages his sparkling wines sur lattes and his sherries in large old botas for many years, disgorging or filling bottles from casks in small lots only when he feels the wine is ready.
Made in tiny quantities with no additions, these are wines of striking purity that show the region in a different guise. Gently saline, luminous and fine, they are unlike any we have tried.