JÉRÔME LAMBERT
Le Zu defruit 2022
Loire, France
From two parcels of old vines planted over sandy loam, the grapes fermented as whole bunches for eleven days, before being pressed off to rest for nine months in fibreglass vats. From a warmer vintage, this is a little deeper than last year’s effort, though it retains plenty of charm with its woodsy notes of berries, earth and spice.
Grolleau
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Jérôme Lambert tends a couple of hectares of vines near Rablay-sur-Layon in a part of Anjou that is undoubtedly one of the Loire’s great terroirs.
Jérôme is a true Angevin. Born in the area but not to a family of vignerons, his love of wine grew naturally. As a teenager he would pick leftover grapes, stomp on them and wait to see what would become of the fermenting juice. For over a decade he farmed less than a hectare, making wine guided by nothing but instinct and occasional advice from locals such as Richard Leroy.
Jérôme now farms four and half hectares spread across small parcels in Thouarcé, Faye d’Anjou, Rablay-sur-Layon and Champ-sur-Layon. He has worked organically from the outset and has been making wine without any additions for several decades.
He is best known for producing achingly pure Chenin Blanc from three parcels of old vines planted over schist. These taut, focused examples of Chenin provide a wonderful expression of Anjou’s terroir and possess a great ability to age.
He also farms a little Grolleau planted over sandy loam, which produces an easygoing, joyful expression of the grape that is amongst our favourite bistro wines and in recent years he has proven himself to be a deft hand at pétillants. His pure, vinous sparkling wines manage to capture both the variety and terroir beautifully. Both his Chenin and a vibrant rosé of Gamay are amongst the best of this genre we have tried.
As is the case when spending time with the man himself, there is never a dull moment drinking Jérôme’s wines, which combine energy, purity and a little finesse to brilliant effect.