ANDERS FREDERIK STEEN & ANNE BRUUN BLAUERT
Quand Tu Balances, Je Te Tiens au Bout du Doigt, et Te Ramène Vers Moi 2020
Ardèche, France
This is a blend of direct presses of Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc and Carignan from their friends Domaine du Mazel and Domaine De Mermès, infused with more destemmed grapes of the Carignan for six weeks before being pressed to old barrels and demi-muids for a year and a half of élevage. A light brick colour in the glass, it draws you in with a heady perfume of red cherry and spice, whilst neat tannins carry an earthy, saline complexity. A remarkably savoury wine, so suited to autumn.
Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Carignan
ABOUT THE PRODUCER
Anders Frederik Steen and Anne Bruun Blauert make their thoughtful and highly original wines from “grapes and only grapes”.
Anders began making wine in 2013 when he first started purchasing fruit from winemakers he admired and making wine alongside his friend, legendary Jura winemaker, Jean-Marc Brignot. The couple and their young family have now settled in the beautiful village of Valvignères in the Ardèche. The many varieties grown here thrive on a perfect mix of clay and limestone and the vineyards are full of life, having been tended organically for decades.
As well as their own vineyards, the two also harvest grapes with their friends Gérald and Jocelyne Oustric of La Mazel in Valvignères and further afield with the Bannwarth family in Obermorschwihr, Alsace.
In his previous life Anders was both a chef and sommelier, working at the best restaurants in his native Denmark. This experience informs the couple’s winemaking, in that a little like a kitchen working with the seasons, they do not seek to follow rules or conventions and do not feel the need to make the same wines each year. Instead, as they harvest, they taste the grapes and begin to imagine the kind of wine they might be able to make. Layers of flavour and texture are brought about through slow presses, oxygen and canny blends.
It is a refreshingly free, creative approach that yields thought provoking, sometimes challenging wines that are truly one of a kind.